Honouring Esther: revisited

Sunday 11 September, Honouring Esther, an installation, Bath Jewish Burial Ground 11.00-16.00

still from installation

A sound and moving image installation in the old cottage alongside the Burial Ground, the ‘prayer room’. The installation is curated from digital work originally presented as part of the Forced Walks: Honouring Esther exhibitions. The Somerset cycle of walks in 2015  finished here on the 70th anniversary of the liberation of the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp. It will be poignant to reflect on the work today: after Brexit, with the far right in power and close to power across Europe and as the Home Office’s Hostile Climate continues undiminished. At the time we were shocked how our walking-in-witness referencing a Nazi Death March appeared to visually resonate with the tv shots of refugees walking through the fields of eastern Europe.

What will we make of it seven years on?

2015 walk ended at Bath Jewish Burial Ground

The route of the opening two-day walk for Honouring Esther was determined by the transposition of the route of a Nazi death march to Somerset. We walked on public rights of way as close to that route as possible. The project retraced part of the journey Lorna’s mother, Esther was forced to take from Lodz, Poland, via Auschwitz, to the infamous concentration camp at Bergen Belsen. Walking 70 years later in Somerset it became our journey too. Where the line of the route in Somerset crossed the imagined line of the death march we stopped, listened to testimony, talked, asked questions and shared. In 2016, a year later, we hosted a further walk on the actual route of the death March in Germany. More than a walk-in-witness, the cycle of walks inspired by Esther Brunstein’s commitment to social justice, the project continues to generate profound conversations about the resurgence of fascism and threats to human rights.

Short immersive films and soundscapes

The installation consists of a series of short immersive films and soundscapes produced using field footage gathered by walkers from the walks in Germany and Somerset, including media gathered by a team from Bath Spa University. We are really excited to be showing the work again in Bath and we extend a welcome to all, especially those who those who walked with us. We will be there through the day. The Honouring Esther archive is here.

We are grateful to the Bath Jewish Burial Ground for the invitation to exhibit as part of the Combe Down Art trail (venue 7), and for the continuing support of Bath Spa University for this project.

A special Mothers Day walk

a walk-in-witness in solidarity with separated families and child refugees.

walkers on Watch House Hill
photo: Alicia White. Walkers on Watch House Hill. Mothers Day 2022

Mothers Day walk: Walking in witness to separated families and child refugees. A new layer in the ongoing project, Sara’s Last Steps, exploring contemporary resonances from the experiences of child Holocaust survivors. In 1945, at the end of World War 2, a group of Jewish child refugees were flown to the Lake District, separated by war and genocide from mothers, fathers, brothers and sisters.

Our walking conversations were threaded with thoughts of those forced to walk into exile, coerced by gunfire and explosion, discrimination and genocide. For Ukrainians in the news at the the moment, but also the Afghans, Syrians, Sudanese, Libyans and so many other people forced out of their lives by war, famine and drought.

Each stopping point imagined as surfaces touching, folded layers and ripples of the living tissue of memory, life, time, geography and place. Connecting. Resonating.

On Mothers Day 2022 we walked an imagined transit across their temporary refuge in the Lake District, following the transposed route of many of their mothers from selection point to gas chamber, interrupted. Punctuated and performed at stopping points, defined this time on Watch House Hill, Pill in North Somerset, by:

a mound made from the rubble of demolished farm buildings;

an old orchard,

a fence,

a shelter by a track,

a viewpoint.

Intersections themed and resonating: separation, bittersweet reunion, solidarity, forced migration, resistance/dignity, custodians of memory.

site fo first stopping point
photo: Pete Yelding: Grassy mound

At the mound, the Tump on Watchhouse Hill, Pill, hosted by artist, Lorna Brunstein we heard testimony from Holocaust survivors: her mother, Esther Brunstein, and her uncle, Perec Zylberberg, about the last time they saw their mother. Their mother Lorna’s grandmother was among the many Jewish mothers killed by the Nazis. The Tump made from the rubble of a bulldozed farm, resonating with the heaps of Second World War rubble still dominating some of the cities of Europe and rising again in the bombed cities of Syria and Ukraine.

In the imaginary of the story of the walk, this point was both the Selection point at Auschwitz and a bunk house in the Lake District village where 300 Jewish child refugees were welcomed. That village, the Calgarth Estate has been erased, there is not even a pile of rubble.

groups conversation on top of mound
photo: Richard White. The first stopping place. Separation.

On common land enclosed by slaveowners, we walked into an old orchard that once supplied the nearby Isolation Hospital. The orchard had been off limits to villagers for years, surrounded by barbed wire and signs threatening a fatal contamination.

A later conversation explored contaminated networks, the networks of trade and empire. The orchard today is a community resource, its complex history documented here by Liz Milner, one of the Mother’s Day walkers. Listening under the apple trees to Perec and Esther we contemplated the unbearable knowledge they carried and the moment of their bittersweet reunion.

It took two years for Esther to be reunited with Perec in England, her only surviving brother. We learned that under existing legislation Esther may not have even been admitted to the UK and that certainly under current proposals Esther and Perec would not have been reunited in this country.

conversation in the orchard
photo: Richard White. Under the apple trees. Bittersweet Reunion
walkers on path in woods
photo: Pete Yelding. A path in the wood
admiring the beech tree
photo: Richard White. Considering the presence of an old tree. Solidarity

We walked on to the sound of a Yiddish folk song, into the woods, the points on the walk folded time and place to our home, our village with distant places and lives. A majestic beech tree twinned with the huge tree by the post office on that now demolished and cleared Lake District village. Here linked with there and then juxtaposed with now.

We talked about other trees as meeting and memory places, a sadness about the tree on Watchhouse Hill was revealed. We stroked its much scarred bark and noted the remains of spring flowers, perhaps someone’s ashes are here.

Considering solidarity and friendship the conversation turned to Bristol City Of Sanctuary and the interconnected support networks locally; in contrast one walker shared the story of one young Afghan refugee whose schooling had been interrupted by war and exile and had been the victim of discrimination as he attempted to resume his education in the UK.

Walkers were invited to find an object or write a note and somehow embody it with the spirit of solidarity and friendship we would want to offer that young Afghan refugee, the spirit that reconnected Esther and Perec. We set off across the open fields towards a green fenced basket ball pitch.

This fence, not unlike the current one at the back of the Lakes School built over part of the Calgarth Estate, evoked thoughts of other fences from those that now enclose refugees, to Trump’s fence across the US border with Mexico, the Israeli West Bank fence and the barbed wire topped enclosures of the Nazi ghettos. Here, bearing witness to those fences, those obstructions to human interaction, we exchanged objects and notes endowed with solidarity, friendship and love. We stood and reflected on Primo Levi’s statement from If This is a Man (1947), written just a short time after his liberation from Auschwitz.

Even in this place one can survive, and therefore one must want to survive, to tell the story, to bear witness; and that to survive we must force ourselves to save at least the skeleton, the scaffolding, the form of civilization. We are slaves, deprived of every right, exposed to every insult, condemned to certain death, but we still possess one power, and we must defend it with all our strength for it is the last — the power to refuse our consent.” 

hand through the fence
photo: Richard White. Lorna’s hand reaching out, questions me. Forced Migration
items embodied
photo: Richard White. Items embodied, saved for the journey.
in the shelter talking
photo: Richard White. In the shelter listening. Resistance and Dignity

In resistance, our bodies hold feelings, memories, songs and rhythms, I refuse to give consent to my oppression. Close to an old track we walked to a shelter where we heard a clip from Esther Brunstein’s speech at the Imperial Museum, London. On the fiftieth anniversary of the liberation of Belsen, she passionately recalled the small and powerful acts of resistance that took place even in the Death camps of the Nazis.

We spoke about the Bund and Yiddish and internationalism and again walking on, heard the glorious voice of Paul Robeson singing, The Partisans Song, ‘Never say this is the final road for you’, in Yiddish, in solidarity with Jewish socialists locked up by the Russians.

There must be similar songs from the Syrian resistance, the Kurdish resistance, Sudan, Libya …. for future walks we will find them.

The old track takes us to the viewpoint, on our Mothers Day walk, to a view over Pill, the river and the bridge. In the fold of time and place it is the gas chamber and crematoria of Auschwitz where so many Saras were killed and it is also a bronze age burial mound on top of a hill overlooking Lake Windermere. On this hill you could see the Calgarth Estate and the lake and the path to the Flying Boat factory where the people who hosted the wartime child Holocaust refugees worked. On this hill they picnicked.

Looking out over the River Avon the river that carried the ships and extracted wealth of empire into the city of Bristol and a surrounding landscape inscribed with that wealth, notions of contamination and reparation returned. We talked about memory, the responsibilities of survivors to live and tell the story, ourselves as storytellers, custodian of memory.

Reaching out to a future in which it should never happen again, and walking with it so that at least in the repeated re-telling, layer upon layer, linking landscape to the telling, it is never forgotten.

Stopping places.

photo: Richard White. the view from Watch House Hill. Custodians of Memory
photo: Pete Yelding. Viewpoint on Watch House Hill

Connections and resonances

Re-booting and opening up an iteration of Sara’s Last Steps as safe passage for refugees is made ever more deadly and impossible. Michael Morpurgo’s recent poem on the deaths in the Channel resonates powerfully. Hold on …. hold on….