Honouring Esther: revisited

Sunday 11 September, Honouring Esther, an installation, Bath Jewish Burial Ground 11.00-16.00

still from installation

A sound and moving image installation in the old cottage alongside the Burial Ground, the ‘prayer room’. The installation is curated from digital work originally presented as part of the Forced Walks: Honouring Esther exhibitions. The Somerset cycle of walks in 2015  finished here on the 70th anniversary of the liberation of the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp. It will be poignant to reflect on the work today: after Brexit, with the far right in power and close to power across Europe and as the Home Office’s Hostile Climate continues undiminished. At the time we were shocked how our walking-in-witness referencing a Nazi Death March appeared to visually resonate with the tv shots of refugees walking through the fields of eastern Europe.

What will we make of it seven years on?

2015 walk ended at Bath Jewish Burial Ground

The route of the opening two-day walk for Honouring Esther was determined by the transposition of the route of a Nazi death march to Somerset. We walked on public rights of way as close to that route as possible. The project retraced part of the journey Lorna’s mother, Esther was forced to take from Lodz, Poland, via Auschwitz, to the infamous concentration camp at Bergen Belsen. Walking 70 years later in Somerset it became our journey too. Where the line of the route in Somerset crossed the imagined line of the death march we stopped, listened to testimony, talked, asked questions and shared. In 2016, a year later, we hosted a further walk on the actual route of the death March in Germany. More than a walk-in-witness, the cycle of walks inspired by Esther Brunstein’s commitment to social justice, the project continues to generate profound conversations about the resurgence of fascism and threats to human rights.

Short immersive films and soundscapes

The installation consists of a series of short immersive films and soundscapes produced using field footage gathered by walkers from the walks in Germany and Somerset, including media gathered by a team from Bath Spa University. We are really excited to be showing the work again in Bath and we extend a welcome to all, especially those who those who walked with us. We will be there through the day. The Honouring Esther archive is here.

We are grateful to the Bath Jewish Burial Ground for the invitation to exhibit as part of the Combe Down Art trail (venue 7), and for the continuing support of Bath Spa University for this project.

A special Mothers Day walk

a walk-in-witness in solidarity with separated families and child refugees.

walkers on Watch House Hill
photo: Alicia White. Walkers on Watch House Hill. Mothers Day 2022

Mothers Day walk: Walking in witness to separated families and child refugees. A new layer in the ongoing project, Sara’s Last Steps, exploring contemporary resonances from the experiences of child Holocaust survivors. In 1945, at the end of World War 2, a group of Jewish child refugees were flown to the Lake District, separated by war and genocide from mothers, fathers, brothers and sisters.

Our walking conversations were threaded with thoughts of those forced to walk into exile, coerced by gunfire and explosion, discrimination and genocide. For Ukrainians in the news at the the moment, but also the Afghans, Syrians, Sudanese, Libyans and so many other people forced out of their lives by war, famine and drought.

Each stopping point imagined as surfaces touching, folded layers and ripples of the living tissue of memory, life, time, geography and place. Connecting. Resonating.

On Mothers Day 2022 we walked an imagined transit across their temporary refuge in the Lake District, following the transposed route of many of their mothers from selection point to gas chamber, interrupted. Punctuated and performed at stopping points, defined this time on Watch House Hill, Pill in North Somerset, by:

a mound made from the rubble of demolished farm buildings;

an old orchard,

a fence,

a shelter by a track,

a viewpoint.

Intersections themed and resonating: separation, bittersweet reunion, solidarity, forced migration, resistance/dignity, custodians of memory.

site fo first stopping point
photo: Pete Yelding: Grassy mound

At the mound, the Tump on Watchhouse Hill, Pill, hosted by artist, Lorna Brunstein we heard testimony from Holocaust survivors: her mother, Esther Brunstein, and her uncle, Perec Zylberberg, about the last time they saw their mother. Their mother Lorna’s grandmother was among the many Jewish mothers killed by the Nazis. The Tump made from the rubble of a bulldozed farm, resonating with the heaps of Second World War rubble still dominating some of the cities of Europe and rising again in the bombed cities of Syria and Ukraine.

In the imaginary of the story of the walk, this point was both the Selection point at Auschwitz and a bunk house in the Lake District village where 300 Jewish child refugees were welcomed. That village, the Calgarth Estate has been erased, there is not even a pile of rubble.

groups conversation on top of mound
photo: Richard White. The first stopping place. Separation.

On common land enclosed by slaveowners, we walked into an old orchard that once supplied the nearby Isolation Hospital. The orchard had been off limits to villagers for years, surrounded by barbed wire and signs threatening a fatal contamination.

A later conversation explored contaminated networks, the networks of trade and empire. The orchard today is a community resource, its complex history documented here by Liz Milner, one of the Mother’s Day walkers. Listening under the apple trees to Perec and Esther we contemplated the unbearable knowledge they carried and the moment of their bittersweet reunion.

It took two years for Esther to be reunited with Perec in England, her only surviving brother. We learned that under existing legislation Esther may not have even been admitted to the UK and that certainly under current proposals Esther and Perec would not have been reunited in this country.

conversation in the orchard
photo: Richard White. Under the apple trees. Bittersweet Reunion
walkers on path in woods
photo: Pete Yelding. A path in the wood
admiring the beech tree
photo: Richard White. Considering the presence of an old tree. Solidarity

We walked on to the sound of a Yiddish folk song, into the woods, the points on the walk folded time and place to our home, our village with distant places and lives. A majestic beech tree twinned with the huge tree by the post office on that now demolished and cleared Lake District village. Here linked with there and then juxtaposed with now.

We talked about other trees as meeting and memory places, a sadness about the tree on Watchhouse Hill was revealed. We stroked its much scarred bark and noted the remains of spring flowers, perhaps someone’s ashes are here.

Considering solidarity and friendship the conversation turned to Bristol City Of Sanctuary and the interconnected support networks locally; in contrast one walker shared the story of one young Afghan refugee whose schooling had been interrupted by war and exile and had been the victim of discrimination as he attempted to resume his education in the UK.

Walkers were invited to find an object or write a note and somehow embody it with the spirit of solidarity and friendship we would want to offer that young Afghan refugee, the spirit that reconnected Esther and Perec. We set off across the open fields towards a green fenced basket ball pitch.

This fence, not unlike the current one at the back of the Lakes School built over part of the Calgarth Estate, evoked thoughts of other fences from those that now enclose refugees, to Trump’s fence across the US border with Mexico, the Israeli West Bank fence and the barbed wire topped enclosures of the Nazi ghettos. Here, bearing witness to those fences, those obstructions to human interaction, we exchanged objects and notes endowed with solidarity, friendship and love. We stood and reflected on Primo Levi’s statement from If This is a Man (1947), written just a short time after his liberation from Auschwitz.

Even in this place one can survive, and therefore one must want to survive, to tell the story, to bear witness; and that to survive we must force ourselves to save at least the skeleton, the scaffolding, the form of civilization. We are slaves, deprived of every right, exposed to every insult, condemned to certain death, but we still possess one power, and we must defend it with all our strength for it is the last — the power to refuse our consent.” 

hand through the fence
photo: Richard White. Lorna’s hand reaching out, questions me. Forced Migration
items embodied
photo: Richard White. Items embodied, saved for the journey.
in the shelter talking
photo: Richard White. In the shelter listening. Resistance and Dignity

In resistance, our bodies hold feelings, memories, songs and rhythms, I refuse to give consent to my oppression. Close to an old track we walked to a shelter where we heard a clip from Esther Brunstein’s speech at the Imperial Museum, London. On the fiftieth anniversary of the liberation of Belsen, she passionately recalled the small and powerful acts of resistance that took place even in the Death camps of the Nazis.

We spoke about the Bund and Yiddish and internationalism and again walking on, heard the glorious voice of Paul Robeson singing, The Partisans Song, ‘Never say this is the final road for you’, in Yiddish, in solidarity with Jewish socialists locked up by the Russians.

There must be similar songs from the Syrian resistance, the Kurdish resistance, Sudan, Libya …. for future walks we will find them.

The old track takes us to the viewpoint, on our Mothers Day walk, to a view over Pill, the river and the bridge. In the fold of time and place it is the gas chamber and crematoria of Auschwitz where so many Saras were killed and it is also a bronze age burial mound on top of a hill overlooking Lake Windermere. On this hill you could see the Calgarth Estate and the lake and the path to the Flying Boat factory where the people who hosted the wartime child Holocaust refugees worked. On this hill they picnicked.

Looking out over the River Avon the river that carried the ships and extracted wealth of empire into the city of Bristol and a surrounding landscape inscribed with that wealth, notions of contamination and reparation returned. We talked about memory, the responsibilities of survivors to live and tell the story, ourselves as storytellers, custodian of memory.

Reaching out to a future in which it should never happen again, and walking with it so that at least in the repeated re-telling, layer upon layer, linking landscape to the telling, it is never forgotten.

Stopping places.

photo: Richard White. the view from Watch House Hill. Custodians of Memory
photo: Pete Yelding. Viewpoint on Watch House Hill

Connections and resonances

Re-booting and opening up an iteration of Sara’s Last Steps as safe passage for refugees is made ever more deadly and impossible. Michael Morpurgo’s recent poem on the deaths in the Channel resonates powerfully. Hold on …. hold on….

Honouring Esther Bristol presentation Thursday 25 January

Thursday 25 January City Hall Bristol. 7.30-9.00 pm

Presentation on the Forced Walks project: Honouring Esther. Short films and sounds from the walks in Somerset and Germany retracing the route of a Nazi Death march. Survivor testimony and contemporary resonance. Love. Internationalism. Solidarity.

Talk from artists Richard White and Lorna Brunstein.

Holocaust Memorial Day event hosted by Bristol Hannover Council. All welcome.

Cut Flowers

exhibit wide3Cut Flowers at the Beaumont Gallery, Mere currently features work from the Forced Walks: Honouring Esther collection. Cut Flowers runs until Sunday April 23.

B Gal remnants

image courtesy Beaumont Gallery

BGal portraitsJPG

image courtesy Beaumont Gallery

B Gal soilIn addition to work from Lorna’s practice exploring inherited trauma, the exhibition includes the Honouring Esther soil installation with sounds from the walk assembled by Richard White. On the opening night of Cut Flowers Richard created a ‘pop up installation’ of the films he had made from the walks projected over a tea service in a shed in the foyer of the Beaumont Gallery.

shedprojection2

shedprojection tea

BGal proj

Image courtesy Beaumont Gallery

This is a joint show with Andrew Walworth who also curated the exhibition: “This exhibition comes from a need to articulate what a refugee from a foreign state means to a person living well away from the actuality of war, how refugees are perceived in the modern world – their almost universal no-status – and the way in which they are treated. I invited Lorna to exhibit as she has personal knowledge of the worst aspects of war and the subsequent fallout. Her works also act as a prompt, a historical reminder for us to think about when reading opinions about current wars and refugees.”

Click to view youtube clip of installation

Esther Brunstein

esther-70

Esther at 70

Esther Brunstein, the Esther we honour in this project and series of walks, the Esther who has been our inspiration throughout, died earlier this week.

The closing exhibition of the Honouring Esther project is deliberately timed around the Holocaust Memorial Day events. One of the objectives was to explore how we might find new ways of working with survivor testimony in the sure knowledge that they wouldn’t be with us for much longer. Esther is no longer with us.

Esther Brunstein was one of the key figures in the campaign for a Holocaust Memorial Day. She became active as a public speaker challenging Holocaust deniers during the period covered by the forthcoming film ‘Denial’ speaking at major public events and schools colleges and universities up and down the country. As a child Esther was immersed in the philosophy of the Bund, the Jewish workers socialist movement and the vibrant Yiddish culture of pre WW2 Europe, she was a passionate internationalist and human rights activist. She spoke at the United Nations on the 50th anniversary of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights. Esther’s is one of the voices you will hear if you visit the Holocaust gallery at the Imperial War Museum. She touched thousands of lives including that of a school boy now a doctor who cared for her in her last days. He remembered her speaking at his school when he was a sixth former.

We pay our respects, celebrate her life and continue in that spirit of love and intenationalism. The exhibition will run, 26-29 Jan as advertised in Bath at 44AD Gallery.

Work in progress and exhibition dates

Work in progress briefing to members of the Bristol Hannover Association. Open Meeting

Thursday April 7 19.30

Rm C117

Commons

Bath Spa University. Newton Park Campus

A chance to meet the artists and review the walk in Germany, discuss resonances form the project and hear about developing work and plans for documentation exhibition.

Lager 3, b

Exhibition of documentation and new work

44AD Gallery, Bath BA1  1NN

24-29 January 2017

Walk Day 1 From Ovelgonne to Winsen

It begins again.
At first its a history tour, a site visit then as the conversations begin and the elements take their toll, emotion and contemporary resonances start to manifest themselves. We hear of a phone call, only yesterday, an elderly woman sharing a childhood experience seeing brutal treatment of slave labourers from the Judenlage, ‘Waldeslust’. One woman was bent over and could hardly stand, the guard beat her and when she could not get up he raised his gun and shot her. The guard then looked threateningly at the girl and she ran away.

There is another kind of memory surfacing here, the child witness who was told by parents and officials to say nothing and not question. As they come to the end of their lives the questions remain and the experience re-surface. We hear a story of children who ran up with food to the death marchers passing their homes. Small and incredibly brave acts of kindness. Dangerous to offer, dangerous to accept. A story silenced for a generation. Perhaps we have been, momentarily, a stimulus for the re-surfacing of that story. Indifference is granular and it transforms as we get closer to individual acts of indifference, complicity, courage and resistance….and childhood trauma
Station inheritance family.jpg
At last through the wind and cold, cold rain across the icy river to Winsen. Over the bridge carrying yellow tulips..not sure if this was a symbol but the yellow stood out, the colour of the star they wore. Over the bridge with flowers and ivy…some distant echo of the original meaning of Wandeslust. A group of us, more than we had expected. Older people networked by our respected and connected Julius Krizsan and informed with such sensitive and lyrical German/English by Irmlinde Florian, a community of local remembrance www.ag-bergen-belsen.de is represented and bears witness in the yellow tulips.
Aller bridge tulips.jpg
We walked in the cold and rain, we stopped to share and tell our stories. Revisiting the last remnants of the slave labour camp, trying to imaging 400 starving women being worked close to death and trying to survive in such a place. Beating the bounds of the camp and trying to imagine what ghosts haunt the new houses on the site. We stood at the site of the gate to the compound and listened to Esthers voice.

Against all the odds she had lived to tell the story and we were there to witness and re tell it…this happened here. Her story is ground truthed

It felt like the end of the day when we crossed the bridge carrying the yellow tulips. Passing an old redbrick building with two stars of David in relief……no one knows…. To the memorial stone at Winsen. A memorial to a brave carpenter who with the help of others enabled French prisoner on a later death march to escape, he hid them until the British army arrived. We play Paul Robeson singing The Partisans Song in their honour, for Esther and for all acts and actors of resistance. Julius K told the story and then the Mayor greeted us and invited us in to the town hall.
Winsen stone group1.jpg
A truly humbling experience followed, we were welcomed with food and cakes tea, coffee and sparkling mineral water. The Mayor read a powerful statement in halting but strong English, his daughter, the same age as Esther would have been, had helped him. As we drip dried and warmed up we heard more of the story of the carpenter told in praise of those who seize the moment, do the right thing, take the risk for justice and human rights. What a man, lets have him as our Mayor!

We finished with a resonance bringing us right up to now, meeting Ismail from Iraq, one of 150 refugees currently welcomed into Winsen, and Karina from Azerbaijan, his support worker. Both had survival stories to tell crossing borders with children seeking safety, underlining the real value of organisations such as UNICEF, UNHCR and the Red Cross. Belonging begins with a sense of safety, in Winsen the welcome is warm. Putting us to shame as UK citizens. As Karina said these are world problems, we are all people we have to work together to solve them. We connected past with present, at least now they communicate.

Belsen behind the barbed wire

Belsen Roundhouse windowserased
Its about layers and what we tell ourselves and are told about each one. What happens when you dig through them and question through. Lorna took her first soil sample from the yard of a house built within the barbed wire perimeter of the Waldeslust camp. A pile of earth pushed aside from the building work, dark and sandy. Perhaps Esther trod on that earth. New house, white walls, shoes outside on the porch, dog barking and as I stood guard on that strange and rather furtive new ritual the central heating kicked in. Only steam from the chimney. Mix of guilt and catharsis, maybe they were just ignoring us.
Waldeslust soil1

We  recce the arrival at Belsen discussing dilemmas and legacies with the archivist Bernd Horstmann. We visit the rest of the Belsen story still held behind barbed wire. Deep in the Nazi built military camp occupied by the victorious British and now returned to the Germans we saw buildings where survivors of Belsen were cared for and where some died and were buried. We saw their meeting places and heard echoes of their stories. Into the vast Round House once a concert hall, once makeshift hospital, now echoing, empty and cavernous. Full of ghosts. The British military have handed it over in full working order. Along with the site and buildings including churches and shops and cookhouses, a new built secondary school for 500 children, also stands empty. Cold War front line spaces idle and silent. Meanwhile refugees trudge their way to makeshift camps. History knocks on the door.
Belsen Roundhouse interior1
At last walking through the ghost gates of Belsen as Esther did when it was hard real and deathly 71 years ago. The landscaping tells its story, the horror is not concealed.  I hear Esther retold talking about the shakey sensation of early fever, the creeping awareness of death approaching, saying to to herself and to her dead mother that she had done her best, she had tried to make it, to tell the story but that she feared she would not be able to carry on. Thanks to the soldiers she did, we will be there on Friday ensuring that the story continues to be told.

Preparing the way

First days in Germany

Celle childhood installation

A teddy bear in a museum/gallery in Celle Synagogue reduces me to tears. A childhood under the shadow of the swastika. An empty room with a tin bath and a teddy. A child’s toy bears witness. The bear materialised my tears. The squalid last days of the war, one town helped death marchers escape and hid them, in another, coerced or complicit, locasl people chased down and shot or captured escaped prisoners. The Celle Hare Hunt. The rounded up survivors were death marched to Belsen perhaps along the same route we had driven.
Celle stolpersteine2
The Celle Synagogue: it survived Nazi thug axes and was never put to flame as it would have set the town alight. Here new life and recovery began as Belsen survivors reclaimed the building in 1946. In the street outside polished by snow grip grit, rain and foot fall, my first Stolpersteine, ‘stumbling stones’  peoples remembering places for the people that once lived there, old people who fled to Holland but were brought back to Auschwitz to be killed, others disappeared and one my mothers age dead before she could be a mother. Here remembered.
Hambuhren Tiger Orchid4
This afternoon we are seated in the Zuhlke garden centre alongside Hambuhren Tiger orchids. Here we meet with Julius Krizsan our local fixer and former Green Party MP, as avuncular and no nonsense as I had expected from our email exchanges, local historian Irmlinde Florian, eye witness Hans Ovelmann and Herr Zuhlke, owner of the garden centre that sits at the edge of the Waldeslust site. The walk was toasted with light bulb glasses of Irmlinde’s red home brew. Prost.

Later we tour the perimeter of the site and view the remains of Waldeslust, what horrors and squalor has that building seen. We see some things that Esther may have seen and we look on. Try to imagine and can’t. The tall trees are recent, the big one perhaps a sapling 71 years ago. A Narnia lamp in a thawed landscape, darkening trees and evergreens, the absence of snow adding to the macabre.
Waldeslust remains 3
We are overwhelmed already, immersed. Tomorrow checking day two of the walk, the long haul through the woods to Belsen.