Honouring Esther: revisited

Sunday 11 September, Honouring Esther, an installation, Bath Jewish Burial Ground 11.00-16.00

still from installation

A sound and moving image installation in the old cottage alongside the Burial Ground, the ‘prayer room’. The installation is curated from digital work originally presented as part of the Forced Walks: Honouring Esther exhibitions. The Somerset cycle of walks in 2015  finished here on the 70th anniversary of the liberation of the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp. It will be poignant to reflect on the work today: after Brexit, with the far right in power and close to power across Europe and as the Home Office’s Hostile Climate continues undiminished. At the time we were shocked how our walking-in-witness referencing a Nazi Death March appeared to visually resonate with the tv shots of refugees walking through the fields of eastern Europe.

What will we make of it seven years on?

2015 walk ended at Bath Jewish Burial Ground

The route of the opening two-day walk for Honouring Esther was determined by the transposition of the route of a Nazi death march to Somerset. We walked on public rights of way as close to that route as possible. The project retraced part of the journey Lorna’s mother, Esther was forced to take from Lodz, Poland, via Auschwitz, to the infamous concentration camp at Bergen Belsen. Walking 70 years later in Somerset it became our journey too. Where the line of the route in Somerset crossed the imagined line of the death march we stopped, listened to testimony, talked, asked questions and shared. In 2016, a year later, we hosted a further walk on the actual route of the death March in Germany. More than a walk-in-witness, the cycle of walks inspired by Esther Brunstein’s commitment to social justice, the project continues to generate profound conversations about the resurgence of fascism and threats to human rights.

Short immersive films and soundscapes

The installation consists of a series of short immersive films and soundscapes produced using field footage gathered by walkers from the walks in Germany and Somerset, including media gathered by a team from Bath Spa University. We are really excited to be showing the work again in Bath and we extend a welcome to all, especially those who those who walked with us. We will be there through the day. The Honouring Esther archive is here.

We are grateful to the Bath Jewish Burial Ground for the invitation to exhibit as part of the Combe Down Art trail (venue 7), and for the continuing support of Bath Spa University for this project.

A special Mothers Day walk

a walk-in-witness in solidarity with separated families and child refugees.

walkers on Watch House Hill
photo: Alicia White. Walkers on Watch House Hill. Mothers Day 2022

Mothers Day walk: Walking in witness to separated families and child refugees. A new layer in the ongoing project, Sara’s Last Steps, exploring contemporary resonances from the experiences of child Holocaust survivors. In 1945, at the end of World War 2, a group of Jewish child refugees were flown to the Lake District, separated by war and genocide from mothers, fathers, brothers and sisters.

Our walking conversations were threaded with thoughts of those forced to walk into exile, coerced by gunfire and explosion, discrimination and genocide. For Ukrainians in the news at the the moment, but also the Afghans, Syrians, Sudanese, Libyans and so many other people forced out of their lives by war, famine and drought.

Each stopping point imagined as surfaces touching, folded layers and ripples of the living tissue of memory, life, time, geography and place. Connecting. Resonating.

On Mothers Day 2022 we walked an imagined transit across their temporary refuge in the Lake District, following the transposed route of many of their mothers from selection point to gas chamber, interrupted. Punctuated and performed at stopping points, defined this time on Watch House Hill, Pill in North Somerset, by:

a mound made from the rubble of demolished farm buildings;

an old orchard,

a fence,

a shelter by a track,

a viewpoint.

Intersections themed and resonating: separation, bittersweet reunion, solidarity, forced migration, resistance/dignity, custodians of memory.

site fo first stopping point
photo: Pete Yelding: Grassy mound

At the mound, the Tump on Watchhouse Hill, Pill, hosted by artist, Lorna Brunstein we heard testimony from Holocaust survivors: her mother, Esther Brunstein, and her uncle, Perec Zylberberg, about the last time they saw their mother. Their mother Lorna’s grandmother was among the many Jewish mothers killed by the Nazis. The Tump made from the rubble of a bulldozed farm, resonating with the heaps of Second World War rubble still dominating some of the cities of Europe and rising again in the bombed cities of Syria and Ukraine.

In the imaginary of the story of the walk, this point was both the Selection point at Auschwitz and a bunk house in the Lake District village where 300 Jewish child refugees were welcomed. That village, the Calgarth Estate has been erased, there is not even a pile of rubble.

groups conversation on top of mound
photo: Richard White. The first stopping place. Separation.

On common land enclosed by slaveowners, we walked into an old orchard that once supplied the nearby Isolation Hospital. The orchard had been off limits to villagers for years, surrounded by barbed wire and signs threatening a fatal contamination.

A later conversation explored contaminated networks, the networks of trade and empire. The orchard today is a community resource, its complex history documented here by Liz Milner, one of the Mother’s Day walkers. Listening under the apple trees to Perec and Esther we contemplated the unbearable knowledge they carried and the moment of their bittersweet reunion.

It took two years for Esther to be reunited with Perec in England, her only surviving brother. We learned that under existing legislation Esther may not have even been admitted to the UK and that certainly under current proposals Esther and Perec would not have been reunited in this country.

conversation in the orchard
photo: Richard White. Under the apple trees. Bittersweet Reunion
walkers on path in woods
photo: Pete Yelding. A path in the wood
admiring the beech tree
photo: Richard White. Considering the presence of an old tree. Solidarity

We walked on to the sound of a Yiddish folk song, into the woods, the points on the walk folded time and place to our home, our village with distant places and lives. A majestic beech tree twinned with the huge tree by the post office on that now demolished and cleared Lake District village. Here linked with there and then juxtaposed with now.

We talked about other trees as meeting and memory places, a sadness about the tree on Watchhouse Hill was revealed. We stroked its much scarred bark and noted the remains of spring flowers, perhaps someone’s ashes are here.

Considering solidarity and friendship the conversation turned to Bristol City Of Sanctuary and the interconnected support networks locally; in contrast one walker shared the story of one young Afghan refugee whose schooling had been interrupted by war and exile and had been the victim of discrimination as he attempted to resume his education in the UK.

Walkers were invited to find an object or write a note and somehow embody it with the spirit of solidarity and friendship we would want to offer that young Afghan refugee, the spirit that reconnected Esther and Perec. We set off across the open fields towards a green fenced basket ball pitch.

This fence, not unlike the current one at the back of the Lakes School built over part of the Calgarth Estate, evoked thoughts of other fences from those that now enclose refugees, to Trump’s fence across the US border with Mexico, the Israeli West Bank fence and the barbed wire topped enclosures of the Nazi ghettos. Here, bearing witness to those fences, those obstructions to human interaction, we exchanged objects and notes endowed with solidarity, friendship and love. We stood and reflected on Primo Levi’s statement from If This is a Man (1947), written just a short time after his liberation from Auschwitz.

Even in this place one can survive, and therefore one must want to survive, to tell the story, to bear witness; and that to survive we must force ourselves to save at least the skeleton, the scaffolding, the form of civilization. We are slaves, deprived of every right, exposed to every insult, condemned to certain death, but we still possess one power, and we must defend it with all our strength for it is the last — the power to refuse our consent.” 

hand through the fence
photo: Richard White. Lorna’s hand reaching out, questions me. Forced Migration
items embodied
photo: Richard White. Items embodied, saved for the journey.
in the shelter talking
photo: Richard White. In the shelter listening. Resistance and Dignity

In resistance, our bodies hold feelings, memories, songs and rhythms, I refuse to give consent to my oppression. Close to an old track we walked to a shelter where we heard a clip from Esther Brunstein’s speech at the Imperial Museum, London. On the fiftieth anniversary of the liberation of Belsen, she passionately recalled the small and powerful acts of resistance that took place even in the Death camps of the Nazis.

We spoke about the Bund and Yiddish and internationalism and again walking on, heard the glorious voice of Paul Robeson singing, The Partisans Song, ‘Never say this is the final road for you’, in Yiddish, in solidarity with Jewish socialists locked up by the Russians.

There must be similar songs from the Syrian resistance, the Kurdish resistance, Sudan, Libya …. for future walks we will find them.

The old track takes us to the viewpoint, on our Mothers Day walk, to a view over Pill, the river and the bridge. In the fold of time and place it is the gas chamber and crematoria of Auschwitz where so many Saras were killed and it is also a bronze age burial mound on top of a hill overlooking Lake Windermere. On this hill you could see the Calgarth Estate and the lake and the path to the Flying Boat factory where the people who hosted the wartime child Holocaust refugees worked. On this hill they picnicked.

Looking out over the River Avon the river that carried the ships and extracted wealth of empire into the city of Bristol and a surrounding landscape inscribed with that wealth, notions of contamination and reparation returned. We talked about memory, the responsibilities of survivors to live and tell the story, ourselves as storytellers, custodian of memory.

Reaching out to a future in which it should never happen again, and walking with it so that at least in the repeated re-telling, layer upon layer, linking landscape to the telling, it is never forgotten.

Stopping places.

photo: Richard White. the view from Watch House Hill. Custodians of Memory
photo: Pete Yelding. Viewpoint on Watch House Hill

Honouring Esther Bristol presentation Thursday 25 January

Thursday 25 January City Hall Bristol. 7.30-9.00 pm

Presentation on the Forced Walks project: Honouring Esther. Short films and sounds from the walks in Somerset and Germany retracing the route of a Nazi Death march. Survivor testimony and contemporary resonance. Love. Internationalism. Solidarity.

Talk from artists Richard White and Lorna Brunstein.

Holocaust Memorial Day event hosted by Bristol Hannover Council. All welcome.

Cut Flowers

exhibit wide3Cut Flowers at the Beaumont Gallery, Mere currently features work from the Forced Walks: Honouring Esther collection. Cut Flowers runs until Sunday April 23.

B Gal remnants

image courtesy Beaumont Gallery

BGal portraitsJPG

image courtesy Beaumont Gallery

B Gal soilIn addition to work from Lorna’s practice exploring inherited trauma, the exhibition includes the Honouring Esther soil installation with sounds from the walk assembled by Richard White. On the opening night of Cut Flowers Richard created a ‘pop up installation’ of the films he had made from the walks projected over a tea service in a shed in the foyer of the Beaumont Gallery.

shedprojection2

shedprojection tea

BGal proj

Image courtesy Beaumont Gallery

This is a joint show with Andrew Walworth who also curated the exhibition: “This exhibition comes from a need to articulate what a refugee from a foreign state means to a person living well away from the actuality of war, how refugees are perceived in the modern world – their almost universal no-status – and the way in which they are treated. I invited Lorna to exhibit as she has personal knowledge of the worst aspects of war and the subsequent fallout. Her works also act as a prompt, a historical reminder for us to think about when reading opinions about current wars and refugees.”

Click to view youtube clip of installation

Honouring Esther: End of Project Exhibition

Richard White and Lorna Brunstein present documentation and new work from two walks hosted by the artists in Germany and England

  • Frome to Bath 2015 on the 70th anniversary of the liberation of Belsen
  • Ovelgonne to Belsen 2016 on the 71st anniversary of a Nazi Death March

Wednesday 25 January – Sunday 29 January 2017

Thursday to Saturday 10.00-18.00. Sunday 11.00-16.00

Click to book with Bath Spa Live for these free evening events:

Logo finalPreview

Wednesday January 25 18.00-20.00

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Logo final“those we met along the way”

Absence, presence and resonances on a death march transposed to Somerset and returned: a conversation about the work and the walk.

Thursday 26 January 18.00-20.00

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Logo final Holocaust Memorial Day

view the exhibition and  reflect on the themes of the day

Friday January 18.00-20.00

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viewranger-feb16

screen grab from Viewranger click to interactive view

Work in progress and exhibition dates

Work in progress briefing to members of the Bristol Hannover Association. Open Meeting

Thursday April 7 19.30

Rm C117

Commons

Bath Spa University. Newton Park Campus

A chance to meet the artists and review the walk in Germany, discuss resonances form the project and hear about developing work and plans for documentation exhibition.

Lager 3, b

Exhibition of documentation and new work

44AD Gallery, Bath BA1  1NN

24-29 January 2017

After the Walk: Visiting Esther

notes from Lorna Brunstein:

We returned from Germany and even though I was aware I was coming down with a cold and was also completely exhausted by the trip, I  knew I had to visit mum as soon as possible. So I went to London the following day to see her.

We had done a Skype call with her in Belsen on completion of the walk, and even though we had some difficulty with communication – mum’s hearing is poor and the signal was breaking up, it was nevertheless really heartwarming to see her. She was in good spirits and excited to see us and clearly very impressed by the technology that enabled our contact to happen – her wonderful words off camera at the end of the skype…. “now that’s what I call magic!”

24791596360_129049d97e_o

photo by Julia Simmons

I visited with my daughter (Esther’s Granddaughter), Alicia. I had with me an orchid flower that Annette, our wonderful host, historian and friend in Hannover, had given us to take to mum. She had taken one flower from the orchid that we had given her as a gift, which was bought from the garden centre at Ovelgonne, very close to the site of Camp Waldeslust. Annette was very keen that mum should have this flower so we needed to get it to her as soon as possible.

 

Mum wanted a blow-by-blow account of our week there and I showed her all the photos we had taken on the ipad.  We talked to her about the Hohn camp which served as a makeshift hospital after liberation for those who were recovering from typhus, and when I told her that the hospital was in the ‘Roundhouse’ a former ballroom, she became quite animated and said that she was certainly there in a bed recovering but not in the ballroom as it was too crowded – she distinctly remembers being accommodated in one of the corridors. I shall take her a picture of the ballroom next time I go. belsen-roundhouse-windows_24415680529_o

We also talked about where the womens’ barracks in Belsen were to try to ascertain if she had any memory of where in Belsen she was, and when I asked her if she remembered any trees, she said very quickly that she did. Bernd Hostmann had asked me to ask her, as he felt sure that she would have been in the womens’ barracks which were in an area surrounded by trees. Her immediate affirmative response to that question confirmed for us that the place where we had left our stones and had played the kaddish was indeed the right place.

24791713090_e279823808_o

photo by Julia Simmons

I talked about the little building that Irmlinde showed us – the outside toilet block and only remaining structure of Waldeslust.  Mum did remember and I will take her the photo of it when I visit the end of this week, as she very much wants to see it. Waldeslust remains 3

I am always concerned and mindful of not wanting to churn up painful and distressing memories for mum but she says each time that it is helpful and healing for her to know that we have been to the exact place where it all happened.

She says those thoughts are with her all the time – how could they not be? Talking and sharing them for her, affirms and validates her and what she went through. It was right we went – it was our way of bearing witness.

She said again to me that she wished she could have come and walked with us and is cross with herself that she could not!

I never ever cease to be amazed by my mother’s spirit and strength. I am truly humbled by this amazing woman.

Maps and tanks…more layers

Walking into the Commons building at Bath Spa University I was stunned to see the map still showing in satellite view on the MediaWall. BSU media wall wide

It was showing the last day of the walk, live as we had left it. My tears were not dry. I am still waking on that endless walk, a whole body anxiety that I might not get there, might not make it in time. Think of Esther and the others. Imagining myself walking. Feeling it shift and blur and decay to damp powder in my memory’s hands, like rotten wood. A flashback shock that burned with me .BSU media wall Waldeslust2

The walk had been well watched and as we learned more, we heard of a crowd gathering in front of it watching the dots of the Social Hiking beacon advance and the blue social media markers light up as we made our way live. Conversations resonated from the space. We heard of and later met a former tank driver who had been stationed at the barracks we had visited where Esther had been hospitalised. He had stood and with his work mates watched our path light up. He urgently wanted to share his experience and we stood in front of the track of our walk, looking at the satellite view of our retracing of Esther’s forced march and he identified his places. Told of his sensed echoes of Belsen survivors. Ghost in the camp. The Cold War resonates. In our heads we mapped together.BSU media wall wide Belsen

Walk Day 2: Winsen to Belsen

thoughts and comments from Richard White:

Indifference is granular, as we walk deeper into all this, into ourselves, history and the terrain we find fewer explanations and more to make sense of. The heroic carpenter of Winsen who hid the French death march escapees is memorialised as a local hero but in his time he was shunned and considered to be a shitinthenester. Julius’s work has recently surfaced this local memory and proudly told local story, but why so late to memorialise him and why so few did not seize the moment to do the right thing. Silence of shame perhaps. Silence of consent. Silence of complicity…… What do you tell your children, what do the grandchildren ask of their grandparents. I was told stories of heroism and the Blitz. Harder to surface the small acts of resistance.

road sign Belsen3

Winsen: we gathered in the morning at the memorial stone joined by Annete Wienecke and a student, local walker Dieter from the day before and were met again by Julius. Julius set the challenge of further researching the story of the escapees, finding the military records. The Mayor came out of the townhall greeted us again and saw us off.

Walking out through the town passing perhaps the same red rooted houses Esther recalled. Who looked out those windows? What did they see?

littlredhouses wndow

A clump of trees close to the site of a shooting of a death marcher, perhaps collapsed or walking too slowly. The trees, maybe saplings then, representing the moment, perhaps embodying it. Later a more recent roadside shrine, the tree scarred, bark viciously torn, bearing witness to car crash and lives destroyed in that recent brief moment of terror. Walking on into the rain. Cold wet penetrating rain. Wind driven cold. Stinging our faces.

walk solitary towards1

We, kitted up for all weathers, stayed dry. Looking out from under hats and hoods and umbrellas. Listening intently to the sounds of the forest. Listening closely to Esther’s recorded testimony  and the words of the poets spoken by our children.

Out of the trees into flat open fields wooded paths off to right and left. Dark mud scraped off crop remnants. Piles of mechanically crushed building….what stories in the crushed concrete and bricks. Fabric almost erased and recycled for new purposes. We walk on in the cold and wind whipped drizzle. Across the fields, darkly edged with trees, in the shadows hidden and revealed by its movement, a deer.

Walk without words, thinking about exile and belonging. The rain intensifies, we become aware of our bodies. Feeling the cold, imagining the cold. The need to urinate intensifies,  death marchers forced to walk on. I stop to piss in the woods. Such a stop would have cost me my life. Looking out deep into the forest I think of escapees, hunter and hunted and those who stumbled their last and fell and were shot…

The endless road… they would not have known how far it was to go. I thought of refugee children walking with their parents today, what I would say to the question “ Are we nearly there?” Just keep walking. The rain became mist in the distance and the walkers disappeared into it. Cars hissed past. Discarded bones by the road. Walking into our bodies, the terrain walking itself. My attention is drawn to a discarded boot. Tall trees swaying, the roar and hiss of fast passing trucks and buses, a huge tractor towing logs. Pine trees, wind blown aroma. Sounds of the working forest and from the military zone tanks accumulated distant engine roar. A woodpecker ratatat sound like gunshot and I imagine an abandoned body in concentration camp stripes, exhausted, shot dead, slumped in the ditch. Discarded. Straight black wet path, ditch drain alongside. Today only discarded plastic.

At last we stop for hope, we remember Anne Frank and I hear my daughter’s voice, we think about the ideals and principles that sustained Esther. The Bund. Internationalism. In cold drizzle we listen to Paul Robeson signing The Partisans Song  and I for one was warmed. With our art we act in solidarity, this 71st anniversary is a platform to connect, as well as feel, now. I tweet and record sound and images. I read that the walk is live on the map. Connections made, resonating….

group in wood wet

Into the brooding mist of the dark forest to the historic entrance to the Bergen Belsen camp. A dash across the busy modern road that separates us. Disorderly to the stone that marks the site of the gates.  We make our last public intervention, the 10th station, Liberation. Our voices for those silenced. Here Lorna takes a soil sample.

wet path empty

…and that is how the group of walkers entered the Bergen Belsen Memorial, the site of the former death camp. Overwhelming. Looking for remains, for some sense of hard bricks and mortar truth. Out of the huge open space of mass graves and into the woods, here there are the remains of levelled foundations, preserved as clearings, the site of huts. Bernd Horstmann thinks that it is most likely that Esther was taken here, the women’s camp. Here too when she arrived somewhere, barely alive in the cold and the stink and the squalor was Anne Frank and her sister. In memory of Anne Frank and all the others here and world wide who did not make it, we stood in silence and listened to a dear friend and ‘Uncle’  Meyer Bogdanski speak the Kaddish. My sister, Julia,  produces a yellow stone from Burton beach, in memory of Pat our mother who died just after Christmas. I sob big body wrenching cries.Belsen womens camppath2

Returning to the main field undulating strangely, unnaturally, with what is buried beneath. Concealed. Thousands of bodies and the ashes of more. Sandy soil scooped up to cover and define burial sites but also to bury the remaining watchtowers and barbed wire. As if the buried remains were forcing themselves to the surface. The forest returns with wild boar and wolves, trees planted and self seeded, permitted, managed.

Finally as the light began to fail we were welcomed in to the education centre by Stephanie and Bernd.  Welcomed with food and drink. Sharing the story again, exchanging gifts. The book of names from Bernd…only a third of the victims have been named, Esther is there, he showed us and we now play our part in networking the search for names. 100,000 victims still to be named. And at last we connect with Esther via Skype. Mother sees daughter from Belsen 71 years later. A surreal encounter concludes with Esther looking out of the screen, her care home iPad showing only the top of her head and the ceiling of the care home, projected onto the Belsen class room wall. Off camera Esther’s closing remark: “Now thats what I call magic”, reduces the room to uproar, laughter and applause.

Out into the still, cold, dark, night. Warm hugs and farewells with the Belsen staff team. Returning the way we came, changed, the car headlights only illuminate the edge of the forest. No wolves howl.Woods boot

Walk Day 1 From Ovelgonne to Winsen

It begins again.
At first its a history tour, a site visit then as the conversations begin and the elements take their toll, emotion and contemporary resonances start to manifest themselves. We hear of a phone call, only yesterday, an elderly woman sharing a childhood experience seeing brutal treatment of slave labourers from the Judenlage, ‘Waldeslust’. One woman was bent over and could hardly stand, the guard beat her and when she could not get up he raised his gun and shot her. The guard then looked threateningly at the girl and she ran away.

There is another kind of memory surfacing here, the child witness who was told by parents and officials to say nothing and not question. As they come to the end of their lives the questions remain and the experience re-surface. We hear a story of children who ran up with food to the death marchers passing their homes. Small and incredibly brave acts of kindness. Dangerous to offer, dangerous to accept. A story silenced for a generation. Perhaps we have been, momentarily, a stimulus for the re-surfacing of that story. Indifference is granular and it transforms as we get closer to individual acts of indifference, complicity, courage and resistance….and childhood trauma
Station inheritance family.jpg
At last through the wind and cold, cold rain across the icy river to Winsen. Over the bridge carrying yellow tulips..not sure if this was a symbol but the yellow stood out, the colour of the star they wore. Over the bridge with flowers and ivy…some distant echo of the original meaning of Wandeslust. A group of us, more than we had expected. Older people networked by our respected and connected Julius Krizsan and informed with such sensitive and lyrical German/English by Irmlinde Florian, a community of local remembrance www.ag-bergen-belsen.de is represented and bears witness in the yellow tulips.
Aller bridge tulips.jpg
We walked in the cold and rain, we stopped to share and tell our stories. Revisiting the last remnants of the slave labour camp, trying to imaging 400 starving women being worked close to death and trying to survive in such a place. Beating the bounds of the camp and trying to imagine what ghosts haunt the new houses on the site. We stood at the site of the gate to the compound and listened to Esthers voice.

Against all the odds she had lived to tell the story and we were there to witness and re tell it…this happened here. Her story is ground truthed

It felt like the end of the day when we crossed the bridge carrying the yellow tulips. Passing an old redbrick building with two stars of David in relief……no one knows…. To the memorial stone at Winsen. A memorial to a brave carpenter who with the help of others enabled French prisoner on a later death march to escape, he hid them until the British army arrived. We play Paul Robeson singing The Partisans Song in their honour, for Esther and for all acts and actors of resistance. Julius K told the story and then the Mayor greeted us and invited us in to the town hall.
Winsen stone group1.jpg
A truly humbling experience followed, we were welcomed with food and cakes tea, coffee and sparkling mineral water. The Mayor read a powerful statement in halting but strong English, his daughter, the same age as Esther would have been, had helped him. As we drip dried and warmed up we heard more of the story of the carpenter told in praise of those who seize the moment, do the right thing, take the risk for justice and human rights. What a man, lets have him as our Mayor!

We finished with a resonance bringing us right up to now, meeting Ismail from Iraq, one of 150 refugees currently welcomed into Winsen, and Karina from Azerbaijan, his support worker. Both had survival stories to tell crossing borders with children seeking safety, underlining the real value of organisations such as UNICEF, UNHCR and the Red Cross. Belonging begins with a sense of safety, in Winsen the welcome is warm. Putting us to shame as UK citizens. As Karina said these are world problems, we are all people we have to work together to solve them. We connected past with present, at least now they communicate.